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New Zealand wine should be known for its diversity

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New Zealand may be best known globally for its vibrant Sauvignon Blanc, but acclaimed winemaker Chris Scott believes the country’s wine story is far richer. As one of the Top 100 Master Winemakers in both 2023 and 2024, Scott is a respected voice in the industry and a passionate advocate for highlighting the diversity of New Zealand wine.

According to Scott, the international wine community often mischaracterizes New Zealand as a singular cool-climate region with limited varietal expression. “It’s like saying France is one wine region,” he argues. The reality, he explains, is that New Zealand’s two main islands stretch across a wide range of latitudes, from the equivalent of northern Burgundy to northern Morocco, offering a broad spectrum of growing conditions.

The country's relatively young geology and varied soil types also contribute to its winemaking potential. This combination of factors allows New Zealand to produce a wide range of high-quality wines, including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot—all wines that deserve recognition alongside its famous Sauvignon Blanc.

Scott describes New Zealand wines as having a classic structure with hints of savoriness, minerality, and salinity that are reminiscent of Old World wines, yet they also carry a distinctive freshness and energy that mark them as uniquely New Zealand.

Hawke’s Bay: a wine capital in the making

One region that exemplifies New Zealand’s diversity is Hawke’s Bay, home to Church Road winery since 1897. Located on the east coast of the North Island, Hawke’s Bay was recently named one of the world’s 12 Great Wine Capitals, a nod to its quality and heritage. Despite this accolade, Scott believes many wine drinkers are still unaware of the region’s full capabilities.

“We’re a big region with a lot of diversity in topography and soil type,” he says. While many associate New Zealand with the crisp, grassy style of Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay tells a different story. The region produces complex Cabernet/Merlot blends, expressive Syrahs, fuller-bodied Chardonnays and Viogniers, and even varietals like Tempranillo and Malbec.

Interestingly, even the region’s Sauvignon Blancs differ in style, with Scott noting they often resemble wines from Graves more than Marlborough. He believes that as Hawke’s Bay continues to evolve, its subregions will play a crucial role in defining its wine identity. The sheer scale of the region means there is immense variation—comparable, Scott suggests, to combining Eden Valley, Barossa, Adelaide Hills, and McLaren Vale in Australia.

Innovation rooted in tradition

With more than a century of winemaking under its belt, Church Road is a model for how tradition and experimentation can coexist. Scott emphasizes the importance of curiosity and creativity in winemaking, encouraging a mindset that’s open to breaking the rules and exploring new directions.

He sees continuous evolution as essential to establishing a long-term identity for New Zealand wine. “Never take any short cuts,” he advises. This philosophy is embedded in Church Road’s approach, and it's reflected in the wines that continue to push the boundaries of what people expect from New Zealand.

Wines to watch: New Zealand’s rising stars

While Sauvignon Blanc may have opened the world’s eyes to New Zealand wine, Scott is passionate about the grape varieties that are now shaping its future. One of his top picks is Chardonnay, which he believes is “hugely undervalued” when compared to examples from Burgundy or California. From the far north to the deep south, New Zealand produces a broad range of Chardonnay styles that make the category worth exploring.

Pinot Noir is another standout. While Central Otago is the most recognized region, Scott highlights outstanding wines from Martinborough, Marlborough, Waipara, Waitaki, and the cooler zones of Hawke’s Bay. Each region brings a unique signature to the grape, offering wine lovers a range of expressions.

Then there’s Syrah—despite accounting for less than 1% of New Zealand’s plantings, its quality is exceptional. Particularly on Waiheke Island and in Hawke’s Bay, Syrah strikes a balance between weight and elegance, marked by aromatic complexity and a uniquely New Zealand character.

Finally, Scott points to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends as some of the most serious wines being made in the country. With improved clones and a better understanding of viticulture, Cabernet has reached new heights. Merlot, while challenging to grow, thrives in New Zealand’s moderate maritime climates and adds richness and depth to blends. The result? Wines that Scott believes can stand confidently alongside top Bordeaux and Super Tuscans—and often age more gracefully.

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