Sebastián Zuccardi, one of Argentina’s most influential winemakers, believes the future of the country’s wine lies not only in its grape varieties but in its places—in particular, the villages and parajes of the Uco Valley. “The village map is still under construction,” he told db, noting that the real potential of Argentina’s terroirs is only just beginning to be understood and will likely take another 20 years to fully map.

Zuccardi, whose family winery has evolved dramatically since its founding in 1963, has taken the business away from the central Mendoza plains and into the high-altitude foothills of the Andes. His focus is on specific sites like Altamira, Gualtallary and San Pablo, where soil and climate variability yield wines of exceptional clarity and freshness.

Unique soils, high altitude and a sense of place

The Uco Valley, though geographically compact—only about 30km wide—is a mosaic of altitude and soil types, rising from 900m to 1,800m above sea level. These dramatic shifts affect everything from sun exposure to ripening speed. What connects them is their alluvial origin—yet within that broad category lies incredible diversity. Zuccardi highlights areas with granite stones containing quartz, cloaked in calcareous deposits—an unusually complex mix that contributes to the region’s unmistakable minerality.

Originally drawn to these areas by grape quality rather than soil analysis, Zuccardi admits he only later came to understand the impact of calcaire-rich soils. “In an empirical way, I had an idea about the quality of the grapes,” he reflects.

His focus now is on creating wines that express these unique conditions. He likens the regional classification to a pyramid: at the base is Uco Valley; one step up are village-level wines; then come paraje wines; above that, wines from a single finca (estate); and at the top, parcel wines from specific blocks. This approach mirrors the precision of Burgundy, rather than the broader varietal labels traditionally associated with New World regions.

Beyond Malbec: redefining Argentine wine

Zuccardi argues that Argentina is undergoing a quiet but profound transformation, defined by four “revolutions”: regional identity, breaking geographic limits of viticulture, diversification of styles, and the rise of white wines.

“Fifteen years ago, when we talked about Malbec, we were thinking of something totally different,” he says. “Now, the conversation is about place first.” While Malbec remains central to Argentina’s reputation, he sees its identity evolving—more nuanced, more site-specific.

But perhaps the most striking change is in white wines. “When I was growing up, Argentina was considered a red wine country,” he explains. “We thought great wine had to be made near the ocean. But we’ve learned that altitude can also deliver freshness and complexity.”

Today, 30% of Zuccardi’s production is white wine—a figure that continues to grow. His two standout Chardonnays, Fósil from San Pablo and Botánico from Gualtallary, are grown in high-altitude, limestone-rich soils and aged in raw concrete, with no oak influence. The grape variety is not even listed on the front label. “We want to focus on the place, not the variety,” he says.

A return to concrete and authenticity

Zuccardi is a champion of using raw concrete vats—unlined and untreated—for both fermentation and ageing. He made the switch in 2009 and has never looked back. “Concrete gives no taste, it’s pure and precise,” he explains. “It allows the vineyard to speak.”

This move is part of a broader push to return to authenticity, and away from the heavily oaked styles of the 1990s that attempted to emulate Bordeaux. “We lost our identity when we made Malbec like Cabernet Sauvignon,” he says. “If we want transparency and pureness, we have to remove the flavours that don’t come from the vineyard.”

Zuccardi’s aim is not to craft “perfect” wines, but to create those that reflect the place—marked by tension, minerality and restraint. His wines are fermented with minimal intervention, no racking or bâtonnage, and aged in concrete to preserve their flinty, saline character.

Family legacy and long-term vision

Founded in 1963 by Zuccardi’s grandfather as a side project to a family irrigation business, the winery has passed through three generations, each bringing a distinct vision. His grandfather’s obsession with water efficiency laid the technical foundation. His father devoted his life fully to wine, growing the business. And now, Sebastián is carving out a path focused on terroir, identity and site expression.

“Family companies can make decisions that go further than your own life,” he reflects. “We live in the field—it’s our passion.”

While Argentina’s village map is still evolving, Zuccardi’s work in the Uco Valley suggests a bright future rooted not just in grapes, but in place. In redefining Argentine wine from the ground up, he’s inviting the world to see the country’s wines not just as varietals—but as landscapes in a bottle.